Some routes earn their reputation before the destination does. Train travel moves at a pace that lets terrain register properly, mountain ranges, coastlines, forest corridors closing in for miles at a stretch. Arriving by rail feels different. Travelers who have done both feel the difference. Certain journeys shift with every mile. A ridgeline appears, holds […]

Maybe you remember back in April 2012 when I wrote about how it was easier not to plan much in Bolivia. At least I remember it very clearly as it was just yesterday. After visiting one of my favorite places on Earth for 3 days, Uyuni salt flat, I got very sick and the altitude […]